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GE Electric Dryer, model# DDE7200SBL WW, serial# LL215579G. My daughter told me that it stopped heating and now it will not start at all. I have checked the following:
-circuit breakers, all okay.
-voltage at plug outlet, get a reading of 240 from line and 120 to neutral.
-checked plug wires at terminal block, not burnt and showing continuity between plug prongs and wire terminals.
- tested for continuity on rotary start switch and door switch-both okay.
-tested the inlet control, safety and hi-limit thermostats located on the top of the heater coil pan- all okay. Although I figured they were not part of the problem, I tested the cycling thermostats located at the bottom, front of the cabinet and they also tested okay.
- The belt is not broken, and the belt switch shows continuity.
- tested the two black wires on the timer motor, showed approx. 2,000 ohms.
The only direction that I can think to take is the centrifugal switch and motor. How do I test the centrifugal switch? I cannot see how the centrifugal switch is attached, there is no screw or other type of connector visible, is it removable? It looks like it is part of the motor housing. How do I go about testing the motor? Any assistance or advice would be greatly appreciated.

Hi,

-voltage at plug outlet, get a reading of 240 from line and 120 to neutral.

Check this static ( nothing on ) and under a load ( with the turn to start switch turned/pushed ).

- tested the two black wires on the timer motor, showed approx. 2,000 ohms.

The timer motor just makes the timer move and has nothing to do with the running. Timer contacts inside the timer should be checked.

-tested the inlet control, safety and hi-limit thermostats located on the top of the heater coil pan- all okay. Although I figured they were not part of the problem, I tested the cycling thermostats located at the bottom, front of the cabinet and they also tested okay.

Thermostats for the heat will not effect the running of the dryer, just the heat only. Do for sure make sure of that safety/thermal fuse as it is in series with the motor...

I cannot see how the centrifugal switch is attached, there is no screw or other type of connector visible, is it removable?

Many are not removable.

It looks like it is part of the motor housing. How do I go about testing the motor?

Test cord directly on the motor...terminals 4&5 run the motor.

jeff.

-retested timer by connecting probes of tester to actual timer contacts inside the timer, got a reading of 2000-3000 ohms.

-made a test cord and connected to terminals 4&5 of motor, motor then started and ran on a 120 volt circuit.

-also on motor, I tested the orange and blue wires together and got a resistance reading of 3.1 ohms, then orange & black together got a reading of 4.5 ohms and then black & blue for a reading of 7.1 ohms. Do these results indicate the motor is okay?

-should I test the motor start switch, if so, how do I go about this? So far, I received continuity when connecting tester probes to start (#5) and run (#6) with the switch out. I then tried (#5) and (#3 ground?) connected together and it did not show any reading of resistance. I didn't do anything on #1 and #2 as I assume they are for the heat and not an issue at this time. Should I continue?

-I tested the belt safety switch with the drum and belt removed (not broken) and it did not show continuity. Is it bad or is this test flawed because the belt was not connected at the time?

-should I try to temporarily bypass the belt switch, door switch, start switch and safety thermostat, one at a time to see if I can narrow it down this way? To bypass, do I just tape the wire terminals together?

any assistance would be greatly appreciated and I thank you for your previous response.

-retested timer by connecting probes of tester to actual timer contacts inside the timer, got a reading of 2000-3000 ohms.

Timer motor will be 2-5000 ohms...timer switch contacts will be 0 ohms when closed and infinity ohms when opened up.

-made a test cord and connected to terminals 4&5 of motor, motor then started and ran on a 120 volt circuit.

Motor seems ok.

should I test the motor start switch, if so, how do I go about this?

You already did....above.

I tested the belt safety switch with the drum and belt removed (not broken) and it did not show continuity. Is it bad or is this test flawed because the belt was not connected at the time?

Switch will show open ( no continuity ) with the belt off, we must trip or fool the switch closed to test it.

-voltage at plug outlet, get a reading of 240 from line and 120 to neutral. - Check this static ( nothing on ) and under a load ( with the turn to start switch turned/pushed ).

How did this turn out?

should I try to temporarily bypass the belt switch, door switch, start switch and safety thermostat, one at a time to see if I can narrow it down this way?

A good slow process of elimination....except not the element safety(s)....motor thermal switch/safety instead.

I didn't do anything on #1 and #2 as I assume they are for the heat and not an issue at this time.

Correct.

jeff.

Jeff:
The dryer in question is at my daughter's apartment, so you'll have to excuse me when I ask questions that could be answered if I did a simple test. I am trying to get questions answered as much as possible without making a bunch of trips there.
-I bypassed the belt switch with a wire and the dryer runs. What is the procedure to trip or fool the switch closed? The dryer will not run when I reconnect the wires to the belt switch. When I tested for continuity at the belt switch (result was no continuity), I did the test without turning the start switch on the control panel. Would this affect the test results?
-voltage test at outlet showed 240 volts (L1 to L2) and 120 volts (L1 to Neutral) and 120 volts (L2 to Neutral).
-Can I assume my problem is the belt switch?
-Thanks for all your help.

-I bypassed the belt switch with a wire and the dryer runs.

Good

What is the procedure to trip or fool the switch closed?

When I tested for continuity at the belt switch (result was no continuity), I did the test without turning the start switch on the control panel. Would this affect the test results?

Nope.

-Can I assume my problem is the belt switch?

It is looking like that yes.

jeff.

Thank you very much for your help, I would have given up a long time ago if it wasn't for your advice. I replaced the belt safety switch and the dryer is up and running. But... I do not get heat on any setting- on the selector switch or timer. I checked the following-
-flipped breaker off and back on again, no change.

-tested plug outlet receptacle again, seems okay, 240 volts L1-L2 and 120 volts L1-Neutral and 120 volts again L2-Neutral. Checked for burned wires at plug end and connection to terminal block.

-temp. selector switch using wiring diagram, got good continuity reading on appropriate terminals.

-thermostats (including safety t'stat) all tested okay for continuity.

-tested heater coils with multimeter, one probe to common terminal and other probe to each of the other terminals, showed 19.5 ohms on each. Although continuity tester would not light when I used this instead of meter.

Visually inspected for breaks in the coil, did not see any, will check under insulators.

-Looked for burnt or broken wires.

I will check the motor start (centrifugal) switch terminals #1 and #2. I read that you should check for continuity between 1 and 2 with the switch button out and resistance with the button in. I do not see a button on the switch. Like you said, I don't think this switch is removable, so if it is at fault would I have to buy a motor?

The timer mechanism advances okay on the timed cycle. I'm not sure how to correctly test the timer, the wires that go into the back of it are inside two seperate harnesses. I read somewhere to disconnect the two black wires from the motor. The two black wires that go from outside the timer motor to the terminals of the timer assembly look to be soldered. How do I test? What is proper procedure to test timer contacts?

This dryer has a resistor circuit board in the control panel, could this be the problem?
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.

I will check the motor start (centrifugal) switch terminals #1 and #2. I read that you should check for continuity between 1 and 2 with the switch button out and resistance with the button in. I do not see a button on the switch. Like you said, I don't think this switch is removable

The wires can be removed and joined together as a test.

so if it is at fault would I have to buy a motor?

Yes.

I read somewhere to disconnect the two black wires from the motor. The two black wires that go from outside the timer motor to the terminals of the timer assembly look to be soldered. How do I test?

Timer motor only, won't effect the heat.

How do I test? What is proper procedure to test timer contacts?

They can be ohmed with an ohm meter as per the wire diagram or join the heat wires together to by pass the timer contact as a test. On this sample one here, moving the orange wire over with the red would bypass the heat contact.

This dryer has a resistor circuit board in the control panel, could this be the problem?

This is for the timer advancing on the auto cycles.

jeff.

At the motor switch, I joined the the #1 and #2 wires together, the dryer will start, but no heat. At the timer, I joined the red wire (from the terminal block) and the brown wire (from the safety t'stat), still no heat.

I also took the yellow wire (from high limit t'stat) that goes onto the A terminal at the timer and joined it with the red wire (from the terminal block) that goes onto the B terminal at the timer. Result- dryer would not start at all.

At the motor switch, I joined the the #1 and #2 wires together

These are for the heat, good test!

I joined the red wire (from the terminal block) and the brown wire (from the safety t'stat)

Like on this diagram here? The red should stay in place and the orange is removed and moved over with the red to bypass the heat contact on the sample diagram.

I also took the yellow wire (from high limit t'stat) that goes onto the A terminal at the timer and joined it with the red wire (from the terminal block) that goes onto the B terminal at the timer. Result- dryer would not start at all

Terminal B like in the sample diagarm must remain on the timer. It is common to the motor contact C and the heat contact A.

jeff.

dakota3509 wrote:GE Electric Dryer, # DDE7200SBL WW, serial# LL215579G

-I bypassed the belt switch with a wire and the dryer runs.

.

I had same problem with my GE dryer... Thanks for all the tips..
Now excuse my ignorance, what's is the purpose of belt switch?
Is there a danger to bypass switch with a wire? How long I can use
dryer in in bypass mode before replacing it?
Thanks!

Ben

Hi,

what's is the purpose of belt switch?

If the belt breaks the drum would stop turning but the heat would still come on...the belt broken switch prevents the motor from running so the heat will not work without the clothes tumbling.

How long I can use dryer in in bypass mode before replacing it?

None, never....bypassing is for testing only....running something with a safety device disabled could void the home insurance.

jeff.